PLA12-25, trip log, South Greenland Explorer, Aurora Borealis, Incl. flight from Narsarsuaq to Copenhagen

Our long-awaited voyage in South and Southeast Greenland began today with the embarkation of our international group of passengers in Narsarsuaq. Guests had travelled from all corners of the globe to join us, and although the weather greeted us with steady rain, the embarkation itself went remarkably smoothly. Thanks to the sheltered small port, everyone was able to board Plancius comfortably and without delay.

Once on board, we settled into our cabins and gathered in the lounge for the mandatory safety briefing. Afterward, another important briefing followed, ensuring that everyone was well-prepared for the days ahead. With our first dinner together served in the dining room, the atmosphere quickly became lively and filled with anticipation for the journey to come.

The evening program held a special highlight: our very first landing at Brattahlíð, today known as Qassiarsuk, the site of Erik the Red’s settlement. Around the year 985, Erik the Red established this farmstead after being exiled from Iceland. It was from here that the Norse began their exploration of Greenland, and ultimately, the voyages to Vinland in North America.

During our visit, we explored the reconstructed longhouse, which gave us a glimpse into the daily life of the Norse settlers. We also visited the small church, remembered as the first Christian church built on the continent, linked to Erik’s wife Thjodhild. Finally, we stepped into the museum, located in the former home of Otto Frederiksen, the founder of modern sheep farming in Greenland. This added a fascinating modern layer to the historic setting, bridging past and present life in the settlement.

By the time we made our way back to the landing site, the light had faded, and dusk was settling over the fjord. Returning to Plancius, we were tired but deeply content. It had been a full and fascinating first day, and we fell into bed with excitement for the voyage ahead.

After the very busy start of our journey yesterday, a small handful of people were out and about when the sun began its climb behind the mountain chain framing the fjord, witnessing vibrant colors in an otherwise dark sky. One obligatory briefing was still missing – the polar bear safety briefing to make sure that any bear-human encounter may be a mutually pleasant one – before we could land at the now-abandoned settlement of Alluitsoq, once known as Lichtenau.

When we disembarked the Zodiacs in the beautiful natural harbor at the foot of a decidedly green slope sprinkled with buildings in various states of decay, we were alone. The original German mission founded in 1774 by a Moravian missionary and five families was for a time the biggest permanent settlement in Greenland and played a central part in the colonization of Greenland. In 1900, the mission was surrendered to the Lutheran Church of Denmark and the place gradually lost importance until the population was encouraged to settle elsewhere in the 1990s. The last of permanent inhabitants died in 2022. They are buried in the local graveyard. In three different hikes, we explored the material remains of a long, dynamic human history while at the same time valuing the quiet that holds the area captive today.

After lunch and a short transit further, the landscape and scenery had changed yet again from the lush slope that was somewhat difficult to walk to the more open tundra at Unnatoq – “the hot place”- the site of hydrothermal activity and hot springs. All three hikes had the opportunity to pass by the hot springs, which were at a very pleasant temperature, and to spend a lengthy amount of time relaxing in the pool or at least at the edge of it. Whether we were in the water or not, the hotel management had thought one step ahead, treating everyone to some Baileys ashore. Meanwhile, large icebergs were slowly making their way out of the fjord and provided that special detail in everyone’s photographs of the jovial event.

Shortly after dinner, wind and swell picked up somewhat, quickly emptying the dining room and lounge. With waves of up to 2 m high over night, a good place to be – if not the best and most deserved – was a warm bed, recharging for the next full day ahead of us

After a rougher night at sea we woke up in good shelter in Fjord compared to the outer parts of the coast where you could see the white caps created by the strong wind. We prepared ourselves for landing at Herjolfsnes (Ikigait) to discover the ruins of an early Norse settlement founded by Herjolf Bardsson in the late 10th century. This settlement is believed to have lasted for around 500 years. One of the still best-preserved buildings is the remains of the church and churchyard which are slowly getting eroded from the western shore by the sea. With a good eye we also managed to see the traces of the longhouses. While everyone joined their hiking groups, we enjoyed the landing and sun even though the wind was blowing sometimes stronger around us. Many investigated the details of the fauna of the richly vegetated tundra. While the wind picked up during the landing the way back in the Zodiacs was a fun but splashy ride back to Plancius.

After everyone got back onboard, we made our way towards Prins Christian Sund and therefore leaving the busier west coast and Labrador Sea. The remote east coast of Greenland was waiting for us. Cruising through the fjords and Prins Christian Sund in the end was a beautiful way of leaving the west coast. The long and narrow fjords with towering mountains made of granite around us reaching heights of around 1300 m made us all feel small. After a few surprisingly sharp turns we followed the straight line of Prins Christian Sund. And just as we were starting to leave the sound towards the open sea we were totally surprised by a sperm whale. What luck to see this marine mammal in such a place! And with that, a very eventful day came to an end.

We spent the day exploring the stunning Napasorsuaq Fjord, and it gifted us with perfect weather and unforgettable views.

In the morning, we set out on a Zodiac cruise through the fjord, weaving between towering icebergs calved from the nearby glacier. The sheer size and sculptural beauty of the ice made it feel like we were gliding through a frozen gallery, each iceberg unique in shape, color, and texture. The light danced across the surfaces, revealing shades of blue and white that seemed to glow from within.

In the afternoon, we went ashore for a short landing, giving everyone a chance to stretch their legs and take in the glacier from a different angle. The rock formations were remarkable, layered, weathered, and full of character, and many guests enjoyed spotting the small, hardy plants growing stubbornly in the cracks and crevices. Nature’s resilience was on full display.

The return to the ship added a dash of excitement, as a bit of a wave had picked up, making the Zodiac boarding a true Arctic adventure, just the way we like it.

The day ended under a breathtaking sunset, as the sky turned orange and gold, casting warm light over the ice-filled fjord. A perfect end to a day rich with beauty, discovery, and a little splash of fun.

The sun appeared above the serrated mountain range to the east of the Skjoldungen Fjord system. The sea was flat calm and deeply blue reflecting the clear sky above. The dense ice from a week ago, which had almost blocked the way to our landing site at that time, was gone. Pushed deeper into the fjords by winds and current. Offering ideal conditions for our morning landing on Timmiarmiit Ø which translates to “Where there are birds”. However, Plan A had to be changed as several humpback whales surfaced far and close to the ship. When there are whales go don’t hesitate to change the plan, as you never know where they are going to be in an hour. Therefore, and truly expedition-like we swapped today’s planned activities.

Right after breakfast the ten launched Zodiacs left one by one the gangway full of exciting guests. It didn’t take long, and the first Zodiac was in proximity of two humpback whales. Being in a resting mode they surfaced slowly and relaxed not much showing of their body. After a view surfacing cycles the experienced guides identified them as a mother and calf pair, which made this encounter even more unique. Others got to see a whale with a cut dorsal fin most likely caused by an entanglement in fishing gear. We were happy to see that the whale had survived and seemed to be in good health. Those Zodiacs who took the time to head further east even got to see a whale almost fully leaping into the sky, a spectacular behaviour called breaching. To the joy of the expedition team all guests got their share of unique moments among the magnificent humpback whales.

Although we watched the whales for some hours could have stayed all day. However, lunch was calling.

As we did not have to relocate the ship for the afternoon landing, we were soon after called back to the gangway to get shuttled on land. At the shore of a picturesque and sheltered bay we got to see well-preserved archaeological remains of various periods when people settled here. The oldest evidence dates back over 4000 years when the earliest known inhabitants of Greenland, belonging to the Saqqaq culture, had chosen this protected site for the very first time. In our usual groups we spread out to explore the magnificent little peninsula discovering little freshwater lakes nestled between large glacier sanded rocks, unique plants like various clubmoss species, fireweeds (the national flower of Greenland), low growing juniper with berries and most amazing willow trees horizontally spreading over the rocky surfaces. Those who kneeled to look at the various lichens with the Ursula’s magnifying glasses (Lichen candelaris) discovered a magic and hidden world of beauty triggering Uh’s, Ah’s and Oh’s.

A highlight was the pile of polar bear feces not older than six days as it hadn’t been here on our recent landing. Surely clear evidence that we are visiting their homes and protective precautions, for us as well as the bears, are reasonable. Eventually we had to leave another unique and amazing place of Greenland as it was time for today’s recap and dinner. Meanwhile Plancius slowly sailed through the calm blue sea into the evening when the disappearing sun immersed the landscape in various colors of pink, orange and red.

However, the events were not over as we were woken up in the middle of the night invited to come on deck. Although at first very slim Northern Lights were visible in the clear black sky, they grew stronger and larger over time. Luckily it was not too cold so most of us stayed on the dark aft deck for quite some time enjoying this extraordinary phenomenon of the north.

This morning, Plancius glided silently into the magnificent Skjoldungen Fjord—a hidden gem in Southeast Greenland named after a legendary Norse dynasty. The weather was stunning: clear skies, crisp sunlight, and not a breath of wind. Towering mountains flanked the fjord on both sides; their granite faces glowing under the morning sun. We could hardly believe our luck.

Our first landing of the day was at Qoornoq, a serene site tucked between the cliffs. As we set foot onshore, we split into hiking groups. The long hikers trekked past an ancient moraine, eventually reaching the snout of a glacier—its shimmering blue ice a stark contrast to the earthy terrain. Along the trails, low-growing Arctic blueberries and crowberries tempted many of us, and we picked them by the handful as we walked. From every angle, we were treated to sweeping views of the fjord, scattered icebergs, and the rugged landscape. On the shoreline, we came across remnants of Thule longhouses—timeless echoes of the Inuit ancestors who once called this land home.

After returning to Plancius for lunch, we headed out again, this time to Dronning Marie Dal (Queen Marie Valley). The valley was ablaze with autumn colors—creeping Arctic willow and dwarf birch painted the ground in carpets of fiery red and gold. We hiked along a winding river, the calm water reflecting the vibrant tundra and snow-dusted peaks beyond. The air was fresh and still, and the valley felt like a dreamscape.

In the late afternoon, the bravest among us took the plunge—literally—with a dip in the icy Arctic waters. Cheers and laughter echoed across the bay as swimmers emerged, breathless but exhilarated.

As the sun dipped low, we gathered on deck for a special treat: an open-air BBQ dinner. Music played, the grill sizzled, and soon a full-blown dance party was underway under the Arctic sky, a joyful finale to a day none of us will ever forget.

Today’s sunrise was simply glorious. No surprise then that quite a few people had found their way to the outer decks enjoying the morning light flushing over the mountains, icebergs, and calm water in Nansen Bugt. The wide bay with a view of the Greenland ice sheet was the focal point of today’s activities. We would not leave here until early evening.

After breakfast, we dressed warmly for a Zodiac cruise. Had there not been any wildlife, we would easily have been content with cruising in front of one of the large glaciers that comes off the ice sheet to calf into the sea. There was one iceberg in particular that was of the most mesmerizing blue, so naturally we circled it a handful of times, hoping for it to catch the rays of light in ever-changing ways.

But there was also wildlife! At first, we noticed a substantial number of noisy Arctic terns. These small birds hold the record of flying long distances, leaving the Arctic at around this time of year to winter in the Antarctic and then come back again in the following spring. Where these little birds fish, there is prey for larger animals, too, and a little patience was rewarded soon with two and later three humpback whales feeding close to our Zodiacs.

Before, during, and after the cruise, groups of people landed on the small headland from which Nansen began his crossing of the Greenland ice sheet in 1888. This was not a landing during which to go hiking – we merely had enough space to walk up to an old stone cairn and back – but as George and Sven explained, it is a historically important spot, and we would not want to miss it on the itinerary.

After lunch, a second landing took us onto some beautifully textured rocks at the bottom of the ice sheet. Luckily, the rocks were easy to walk on, so we could all make our way up to the ice – Nansen-style – and with a safe radius walk on and experience it. By now the sun was positively boiling. At the mention of ice, we had all dressed accordingly, only to find that the temperatures were very warm and the landing all in all a very leisurely one.

When the day ended and the sun was setting behind the mountains and ice sheet of Nansen Bugt, we were treated to the moon climbing out of the sea, over an iceberg and into the night sky.

Today we were lucky to visit the town of Tasiilaq during the morning just before we needed to head back to Iceland. We entered the scenic bay with very calm waters from where the name Tasiilaq comes from, which means “like a lake”. At about 8:30 am we disembarked, and Pippa welcomed us at the jetty. After arriving on the Zodiac shuttle, we were able to visit different places in town. In the local museum we were able to inform ourselves about the history of Tasiilaq. Further, we had the chance to see old traditional hunting artifacts including narwhal and walrus tusks. In addition, there was also a small souvenir shop with postcards or local jewelry like the typical Tupilak. The weather was overcast, and it rained a little bit every now and then. Nevertheless, it was still very enjoyable to walk around the town and to see what everyday life looks like in a Greenlandic town. At around 10:30 some of us joined the dog feeding session at the dog kennel where we also had the chance to pet some of the very cute looking puppies.

Towards the end of the visit, most of us visited the community center to listen to the local choir as a cultural event. The locals were very welcoming, and we heard an amazing performance by the local choir, which included two drum and dances as well. After the cultural event, we all made our way back to the ship and took our last steps on Greenlandic soil. During lunch we started to slowly move out of the fjord and said goodbye to Greenland. While we started to sail towards our last destination in Iceland, we listened to two lectures in the afternoon. First, Hans gave a lecture about “Greenland Whalers and their interactions with the locals”. Afterwards Thomas, the filmmaker from Germany, gave a talk about making his documentary with Oceanwide in Antarctica to give people an impression of his work since he was also filming on our trip. The day ended as always with our daily recap and the plans for the next and last day of our voyage before we headed to dinner.

Our second day at sea began with the steady rhythm of the Denmark Strait beneath us—a wide expanse separating Greenland and Iceland, known for its deep waters and unpredictable weather. After breakfast, we stepped out on deck and were instantly rewarded with an unforgettable sight: whale blows scattered across the horizon. It was as if the ocean itself had come alive. We saw some Sperm whales surfacing methodically, their distinctive angled blows giving them away. Fin whales, the second largest animal on Earth, glided past like silent giants, while humpbacks showed their curved backs and tail flukes mesmerizing against the steel-blue sea. The swell had picked up a bit since the day before, and Plancius rocked gently as we kept our eyes on the water, fully immersed in the magic surrounding us.

Back on board, it was time for the symbolic return of our beloved muck boots—a small ritual marking the end of our land adventures. Soon after, we gathered in the lounge to listen to Pierre’s fascinating lecture on humpback whales. His passion was infectious, and we came away with a deeper appreciation for these acrobatic giants.

After lunch, Pippa introduced us to future voyages with Oceanwide, planting seeds of wanderlust for journeys yet to come. Later, George and Ursula offered engaging mini lectures that rounded out the afternoon perfectly.

As the day began to end, we met in the lounge once more for the Captain’s Farewell. With glasses of prosecco raised, we toasted the crew and expedition team who made this voyage unforgettable. A heartwarming slideshow brought back vivid memories of wild coastlines, Arctic wildlife, and shared moments.

Our final plated dinner followed, a fitting close to a day that felt both restful and rich with experience. The sea was kind, and so was the company.

We awoke one final time to the now-familiar voice of Pippa over the intercom—a voice that had become a comforting part of our daily routine over the past nine days. Outside our cabins, our bags stood ready, quietly awaiting their journey ashore with the help of the expedition team. Over breakfast, the atmosphere was soft with quiet chatter and lingering gazes—no one seemed quite ready for the journey to end.

We exchanged warm farewells with the dining room staff, whose kindness and laughter had brightened our days, and then made our way to the gangway. Stepping off Plancius—our home on the water for 9 extraordinary days—felt surreal. This vessel had carried us through some of the planet’s most remote, awe-inspiring places. Now, we were not only leaving the ship, but also saying goodbye to the bonds forged across decks, in Zodiacs, and around shared meals.

How do you begin to sum up all we've seen and felt? We landed in Narsarsuaq to start a journey that would take us through echoes of the ancient Thule culture, to the remnants of Erik the Red’s historic settlement, and along the path once taken by Fridtjof Nansen. We stood on the vast expanse of the Greenland ice sheet, wandered the colorful streets of Tasiilaq, and watched humpback whales’ breath from the edge of a Zodiac, mist rising from the sea like breath from another world.

We’ve had the rare opportunity to witness the raw, untamed beauty of the polar regions, glaciers, ice, silence, and sky. Each moment carved itself into our memories, reminding us how wild and wondrous this planet truly is. It has been nothing short of a remarkable journey.

Perhaps the words of Sir David Attenborough come closest:

“It seems to me that the natural world is the greatest source of excitement; the greatest source of visual beauty; the greatest source of intellectual interest. It is the greatest source of so much in life that makes life worth living.”

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1263,2 NM (2339 km)

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, the Captain, Crew and Expedition staff we would like to thank you for travelling with us, it has been a pleasure travelling with you.