OTL09-25, trip log, Around Spitsbergen, In the realm of polar bear & ice

Today will be remembered in a different way. We have traveled from different parts of the world, speaking different languages, but bringing with us the hope of enjoying a few unforgettable days aboard m/v Ortelius.

At 16:00, we were all ready to board the ship on the coal pier and start our amazing journey.

Once all guests and luggage were safely on board, we gathered on deck 6 for an official welcome and a mandatory safety briefing held out on the top deck. This was followed by the Captain’s welcome in the bar, where we were introduced to Captain Remmert and our Expedition Leader, Adam. Glasses of bubbly were passed around alongside a tasty selection of sliders to keep hunger at bay. The moment of departure had truly arrived, and a shared sense of excitement buzzed in the crisp Arctic air.

Dinner was served as a buffet in the dining room, hosted by Hotel Manager William, who warmly welcomed us and invited everyone to enjoy the spread. The restaurant looked magnificent, and the dining crew attended to us with a unique friendliness and charisma. The meal was generous and varied, giving everyone a chance to relax into life on board and enjoy a full belly before heading back downstairs to pick up our muck boots on the Lecture Room.

We went to rest, dreaming of where we would wake up tomorrow, what landscapes would accumulate in our retinas, and how we would discover the Arctic fauna.

After our first breakfast on board, we attended the mandatory AECO and Zodiac safety briefings, then headed out for our inaugural Zodiac trip. Boarding and disembarking takes some getting used to, but we soon got the hang of it. We cruised around the beautiful bird cliffs of Fjortende Julibukta, where we saw lots of kittiwakes, common guillemots, and a few black guillemots.

The birds everyone was most excited to see, however, were the puffins. Scattered here and there amongst the cliff faces, these colorful little birds were the show stopping favorites. There were not many, but they were very easy to see and patient with our presence. They flew above our heads and in front of our boats, flitting quickly by to the utter delight of all.

Approaching the glacier, we saw bits of movement on the left-hand hillside high above our heads: reindeer! At least three were quietly grazing on the vegetation, including a calf. Slowly they all disappeared behind another hill, quietly continuing their morning meal. The glacier itself was something to behold, its size difficult to judge without something to provide perspective. Little growlers and other small pieces of ice dotted the bay, and some of the guides grabbed pieces to be passed around, allowing us to see the imbedded air bubbles. Some intrepid guests even tasted the fresh-water ice; it tasted salty due to the exterior being coated in ocean water.

Back aboard the ship, we had a scrumptious buffet lunch. Who knew that a buffet could taste this delicious?

The afternoon found us taking a short Zodiac ride to Ny-Ålesund. A settlement of international scientific research stations and former coal mining town, Ny-Ålesund has a little for everyone: science, history, a museum, a shop, even a post office. Some guests were lucky enough to see their first Arctic fox of the trip sauntering over a meadow just outside the settlement, while others saw one trot through town and under a building. Ringed plovers skittered across the ground, noticeable only because of their movement, so good is their camouflage, while Arctic terns soared above us, dive-bombing en masse those unlucky or unwise enough to veer too close to their nests.

After a long wander, we all gathered back aboard the ship for a recap of the day from Adam and to hear what is planned for tomorrow. Emily then taught us more about Arctic terns, their biology, and their incredible migrations – to Antarctica and back! Jodi followed with a brief overview of Ny-Ålesund’s history from its earliest days as a coal mining settlement through to its development as a hub of scientific research. We concluded the planned itinerary for the day with our first plated dinner. Delicious.

We awoke at 07:15 to the soft, dulcet tones of Adam’s wake-up call, preparing us for our morning landing at the historic site of Texas Bar. The weather was exceptional, the calm waters and clear skies provided panoramic views of the surrounding Arctic wilderness. A short Zodiac ride brought us ashore, where we were given the choice of joining the expedition guides on a long hike, a medium hike, or a leisurely stroll close to the shoreline. Once we had all made our selections, it was a pleasure to stretch our legs and explore the tundra flora, with the moss campion looking particularly beautiful. We had the opportunity to look inside the old trapper’s hut, originally built in 1927 by Norwegian trappers Hilmar Nøis and Martin Petterson Nøis, who constructed several such cabins across the region.

Following our morning exploring the landing site we all reconvened at the shoreline, where many of us braved the chilly waters participating in the polar plunge. Some ran in briefly, shrieking at the shock of the icy water, while others embraced the experience fully, with a few even taking the plunge multiple times, clearly reveling in the cold more than the rest of us. During lunch, we cruised slowly through the ice-choked waters of Liefdefjorden, as we headed towards Monacobreen Glacier. The bay was mirror-still, resembling a tranquil lake scattered with brash ice and sculptural icebergs in a variety of shapes and sizes.

In the afternoon, we boarded the Zodiacs once again and headed towards the glacier. The peaks of the surrounding mountains behind the glacier creating a dramatic backdrop. The cruise began on a high with our first pinniped sightings: two bearded seals. One lay resting on an ice floe, allowing us a closer look at its impressive moustache. The second seal was in the water, swimming purposefully as it searched for the perfect spot to haul out.

As we wove our way through the ice, the symphony of sounds was unforgettable, the constant crackling and popping as air escaped from the ice. Birdlife was abundant, we observed kittiwakes, guillemots, Arctic skuas, glaucous gulls, northern fulmars, Arctic terns, and we even spotted the elusive ivory gull.

Both Monacobreen and Seligerbreen, glaciers that were once connected as recently as 2015 were highly active throughout the afternoon, putting on a spectacular show. Several impressive calving events occurred, one of the most dramatic just as we were returning to Ortelius. With a thunderous roar, a large column of glacial ice broke away and plunged into the water, a breath-taking reminder of nature’s raw power.

Back aboard Ortelius, we gathered for the evening recap, where we learned about the exciting plans for the following day’s journey north into the ice. Gabi gave us an informative and engaging introduction to the history of Svalbard, followed by an insightful talk on Monacobreen’s glacial dynamics, given by Rao.

All in all, another unforgettable day aboard Ortelius, filled with Arctic wonder, wildlife encounters, and stunning scenery.

At 08:15 this morning, the ship pushed gently into the edge of the pack ice, marking the beginning of a day that would be etched into the memory of everyone on board. Despite a light drizzle at times and patches of fog, viewing conditions were good, and the mood on deck was one of eager anticipation.

It wasn’t long before the first wildlife encounters began. Along the ice edge, hooded seals were spotted, some swimming gracefully through leads of open water, others hauled out on the ice, their distinctive patterning marking them out clearly. Bearded seals soon followed, their large, whiskered faces peeking out from the ice floes as they rested in scattered solitude. Birdlife was active throughout the morning. Fulmars and kittiwakes wheeled around the ship, their calls echoing over the water, while little auks and Brünnich’s guillemots made occasional flybys, adding to the rich variety of Arctic species seen.

As the morning progressed, the fog began to lift, revealing the full, stark beauty of the frozen seascape. With the improved visibility came a shared sense of purpose: every pair of binoculars was turned toward the ice in the hope of spotting a polar bear. The search was intense and constant, as the ship cruised deeper into the ice, surrounded by silence broken only by the creak and groan of shifting floes.

The lecture program gave a chance to warm up and learn more about the environment surrounding the vessel. Aitana gave an informative lecture on sea ice and its vital role in the Arctic ecosystem. Mark followed with an engaging session on the birds of Svalbard, while Hazel rounded out the series with a passionate talk on polar bears, their habits, challenges, and importance as apex predators.

Mid-afternoon brought a comforting ritual: steaming hot chocolate served on deck with optional rum. With the ice all around and the occasional seal still in view, it was a simple pleasure that felt profoundly special.

At 18:15, guests gathered for the daily recap and a briefing on the plans for tomorrow, sharing observations and favorite moments from the day. Finally, at 20:00, the ship emerged from the pack ice, leaving behind a realm of stillness, wildlife, and wonder. It had been a day of discovery, learning, and quiet awe, an unforgettable chapter in the journey north.

Overnight Ortelius continued south from the pack ice, back towards Svalbard. The southerly wind had generated some swell, which provided a little bit of “ocean motion”. We awoke in calm waters once again, as Ortelius made her way down through the northern part of Hinlopen Strait. We were engulfed in a bank of dense fog, which we were happy to leave behind during breakfast.

At 08:00 we started boarding the Zodiacs and headed out across a calm sea towards the spectacular bird cliffs of Alkefjellet (Guillemot Mountain), named after the countless Brünnich’s G\guillemots that breed there during the summer. Overhead the sky was blue, and the spectacular cliff scenery was bathed in glorious early morning sun. As soon as the last Zodiac had departed, the ship moved 8km along the coast to a position where she awaited us at the end of our cruise.

For well over two hours, we enjoyed a leisurely Zodiac ride along the foot of the cliffs. At first it was the waterfalls that delighted everyone, as rainbows danced in their spray. There were small pockets of birds on the cliffs, but it was nothing compared to the spectacle that lie ahead. Although Brünnich’s guillemots are the dominant species at Alkefjellet, we also had occasional sightings of black guillemots, kittiwakes and glaucous gulls. One of the latter was found on a rock enjoying a meal from a guillemot carcass.

At the far end of the cliffs the Zodiac cruise reached its climax. The towering cliffs, over a hundred meters high in places, were covered from top to bottom with Brünnich’s guillemots. It’s hard to be certain of the number of birds, but the most recent estimate is over 60,000 breeding pairs. Not only was it an incredible sight, but the noise and smell were also an assault on the senses. Overhead the sky was a veritable blizzard of birds. And a short distance offshore, the surface of the water was covered with thousands of birds bathing and diving for food. It was a sight to behold, and an experience we will never forget.

The time passed quickly, and the Zodiacs were soon heading back to the ship. As we enjoyed a warming beverage in the bar, Ortelius got underway, heading south-east through Hinlopen Strait towards our afternoon destination.

After a hearty lunch served up by the ever-attentive hotel department, we enjoyed some whale sightings as Ortelius made her final approach to the anchorage at Torellneset. On this exposed shingly point on the south-west side of Svalbard’s second largest island, Nordaustlandet, we hoped to find some Walrus. Zodiacs were launched and the expedition team soon declared that the site was safe for a landing. It was a slow ride to shore in the Zodiacs, as the wind had risen to almost 30 knots and the sea was choppy. A bit of a reality check after all the nice weather we had enjoyed.

On shore, we set off in three groups with the guides to explore the area. The main attraction was a large group of male Walruses hauled out on the very end of the point. In line with Svalbard regulations, we rotated through the site in our three small groups. It was a fantastic sight as the huddle entertained us with their grunts, growls and bodily belches. Some individuals swam just offshore and came up into the shallows to show off their massive heads, rough skin and impressive tusks. The photographic opportunities were fantastic.

Besides viewing the Warluses, Torellneset gave us the opportunity to take a walk in a unique ecosystem known as a polar desert. The barren landscape resembled a desert in every way, with the only signs of life at ground level being tiny lichens clinging to the pebbles, and small patches of vegetation scattered here and there. It was a complete contrast to the typical Arctic landscape. The guides led us around a loop that covered the upper and lower parts of the site, explaining points of interest along the way. It was a pleasant downwind Zodiac ride back to the ship, where we prepared for the evening briefing and recap, and another sumptuous plated dinner.

After dinner, Captain Remmert had one more treat in store for us. He guided Ortelius in for a look at the spectacular ice front of Bråsvelbreen. This colossal cliff of ice stretches unbroken for 160km and is the largest of its kind in the northern hemisphere. At this time of year, the meltwater creates fantastic waterfalls that plunge off the ice cap into the sea. It was a fantastic way to end an exciting and unforgettable day!

During the night Ortelius passed by the Bastion Islands, a small cluster of rocky islets at the south end of Hinlopen Strait. A polar bear was spotted, and Expedition Leader Adam didn’t hesitate to make a call over the public address system just before midnight. Captain Remmert guided Ortelius in closer to shore to provide the best view possible of the slumbering bear on top of an island called Langeøya. We moved on, circling the islands, and three more bears were spotted. The decision was made to drop anchor for the night and explore these islands further in the morning.

It was another bright, sunny day that greeted us, with a cool breeze blowing. After breakfast we boarded the Zodiacs for an exploration cruise of the rarely visited Bastion Islands. Our focus was on the largest island in the group, Langeøya, where bears were spotted from the ship last night, and another was seen this morning. A convoy of Zodiacs headed directly for the bear that was visible from the ship, but unfortunately it was not at all interested in moving from its lying position on the side of a rocky hill. It briefly stood up at one point but quickly laid back down again.

We headed around the western end of the island in search of other bears, and another one was soon spotted resting on the top edge of a snow patch, just below a ridge line. Again, despite being aware of our presence, it showed no interest at all in coming down for a closer look at us. Clearly, these bears were in energy conservation mode, with it being a warm day and there not being much food around. We continued along the north side of the island, and another two bears were found quite close to each other, laying on a snow patch. They also chose to stay where they were and showed little sign of movement.

At this point the weather was fantastic and the sea perfectly calm, so Expedition Leader Adam decided to continue and make a full circumnavigation of the island, in the hope that more bears might be found. Unfortunately, no more were seen, and even more unfortunately, the weather quickly took a turn for the worse. Quite suddenly, the wind increased, and the sea became rather choppy. At this point we were committed to circumnavigating and were forced to pass around the east end of the island in quite rough conditions. Fortunately, it didn’t last long, as we were soon on a heading towards the ship with the wind behind us.

No sooner were we all back onboard, and dense fog engulfed the ship. Our timing had been perfect. The fog remained for much of the afternoon, as Ortelius steamed on towards our destination for tomorrow morning. The afternoon was a relaxing affair with a gentle rocking motion that induced a welcome afternoon nap for some.

Two lectures were laid on by members of the expedition team, for those who wanted to indulge in a little entertainment and learning. First up was Emily with a fascinating talk titled “Protecting Our Noisy Oceans”. Drawing on her experience with the oil and gas industry, Emily gave an overview of measures being put into practice to reduce underwater noise pollution. Allan told the extraordinary story of Norwegian explorer Fridtjof Nansen’s Arctic Drift Expedition in the Fram, 1893-96, which is arguably one of the greatest polar adventure stories of all time.

Just as the evening briefing and recap was about to start, Ortelius burst out of the fog and into sunshine. Barentsøya, the fourth largest island in Svalbard, was suddenly visible off our starboard side. We passed through Freemansund, the channel that separates Barentsøya from Edgeøya, with the mountains of both islands clearly visible either side of us. Just after dinner, Ortelius came to anchor at Sundneset (Sound Point) at the southern end of Barentsøya, where we hoped to make an excursion in the morning. Here we enjoyed a quiet and motionless night.

The day began in the soft light of the Arctic morning at Sundneset, a picturesque and verdant corner of Svalbard where the tundra rolls gently toward the coastline. Under a moody sky brushed with early light, the expedition team made their landing to scout for polar bears. As the scouting team ventured out in preparation for the afternoon’s activity, a polar bear was sighted swimming on the opposite side the headland. Prioritizing safety, the team made the decision to cancel the landing and instead conduct a Zodiac cruise along the shoreline. This unexpected shift became a highlight of the day.

The green tundra landscape surprised many with its unexpected vibrancy, dotted with the last blooming Arctic flora of the season visible from the Zodiacs. Svalbard Reindeer grazed quietly in the distance, their thick coats a reminder of the harsher months they are built to endure. On the slope above the coast, guests caught sight of the Würzburger Hütte, a modest structure with a rich history, a symbol of human perseverance and scientific curiosity in one of the world's most extreme environments. Dotted along the shoreline were groups of barnacle and pink-footed geese, their presence a symbol of the migratory lifelines that pulse through these remote islands. A dramatic moment unfolded soon after: an Arctic fox made a bold and agile attempt to catch a pink-footed goose, a stark display of predator and prey in the raw rhythms of the Arctic wild.

Shortly after, guests were treated to another unforgettable sighting, the swimming polar bear was now ashore, first seen inland before it slowly made its way back to the coast. It paused to investigate a walrus carcass, circling and sniffing the remains. It was a stark and fascinating encounter, revealing the ecological web of life and death that defines this remote region.

Nearby, another Arctic fox could be seen foraging along the shoreline, scanning for scraps while keeping a wary eye on the much larger predator close by.

The scheduled afternoon landing at Diskobukta was also aborted, this time due to the presence of two polar bears resting above the landing site. With conditions unsuitable for going ashore, the team once again shifted plans to a Zodiac cruise, navigating the dramatic coastline of this glacially carved bay.

While waiting to pick up passengers, a young bearded seal curiously approached the zodiacs, swimming between them and offering an up-close look at this sleek and inquisitive Arctic resident.

The cruise continued along the cliffs of the Diskobukta canyon, home to a staggering colony of over 100,000 nesting kittiwakes. Their calls echoed off the stone, and the sky and sea alike teemed with movement — a truly overwhelming spectacle of Arctic birdlife. Below the cliffs, guests observed an old trapper’s cabin, weathered by time and a testament to the island’s human history.

Then, as if the day hadn’t already offered enough, a third polar bear was spotted, this one to the west of the cabin, roaming the edge of the hillside. It was yet another powerful reminder of the Arctic’s ever-present wildness and the privilege of exploring it.

As the Zodiacs returned to the ship the fog rolled in providing an ethereal atmosphere, it was clear to all onboard: this was a day that would not soon be forgotten. From serene tundra to dramatic wildlife encounters, the Arctic had once again revealed its power to surprise, humble, and inspire, all within the span of a single extraordinary day.

Since last night, a powerful weather system has been passing south of Svalbard. By this morning, gusts at sea had already peaked at 50 knots/hour. As Ortelius sailed to the west side of Burgerbukta, we finally found some shelter from the wind by the mountain range Luciakammen. The Zodiacs were lowered steadily one by one from the crane into the sea, after which we began Zodiac cruising along the western shore towards Paierlbreen.

During our cruise along the western coast, we observed numerous sedimentary rocks formed during the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods. Eroded by waterfalls formed from melting hanging glaciers, these rocks have developed beautiful red carbonate surfaces, adding colors to the ink-wash landscape of the western shore. Numerous glistening drift ice and small icebergs floated along the frontal zone of Paierlbreen Glacier, where Kittiwakes and Ivory gulls soared intermittently above the water, foraging leisurely. As our cruise approached its conclusion, the ocean currents grew increasingly turbulent. We managed to return to the Ortelius just before strong winds engulfed the area.

Given the disastrous wind direction and scale for the originally scheduled afternoon landing, we altered our plan and navigated to Hornbreen at the terminus of Hornsund fjord, awaiting weather changes. During this interim, Jodi delivered a lecture on whaling history in the bar, prompting us to reflect on the reckless exploitation that once occurred in this pristine land.

As the dense fog finally lifted, Adam promptly launched a Zodiac for a brief yet breathtaking glacier cruise. Braving gusty winds, we marveled at the intricately textured termini of Hornbreen and Storbreen, their surfaces a mosaic of snow-white and cobalt-blue striations, embedded with sediments from millennia past and scalloped by ocean currents. These vivid details made us forget the biting cold, immersing us in the transient grandeur of the icebergs before their final retreat.

The Zodiac cruise had already exhilarated us, but back on board, the hotel manager delivered even more thrilling news: a barbecue dinner on the helideck! Bundled in insulated parkas against the biting wind, we huddled together over sizzling food, the shared warmth sparking lively conversations. As the embers faded, sunlight suddenly spilled across the sea, bathing our faces in golden light, another day of Antarctic metamorphosis, where wilderness and camaraderie intertwined.

This morning began as several others have during this polar bear filled trip: with a change of plans. Today’s change was not due to a polar bear sighting, however, but rather to strong winds making our original destination unsafe. We continued sailing to a bay called Ymerbukta, where we were immediately rewarded with beluga whales. A pod of at least six of the graceful white animals slowly made their way out of the bay as we waited for the guides to clear the landing site. It was a good start to the day.

Once ashore - we wandered freely within a perimeter set up by the guides. We made our way to a part of Ymerbreen that we could actually touch, not just see from a safe distance in a zodiac. The cold water dripped down the surface of the glacier in glittering rivulets, gathering at the ground into a small creek that poured silty sediments into the bay, turning the blue water brown. We could hear more water rushing down from higher up, but we could not see it; the area was quite hilly, with lots of blind dips and valleys.

As we hiked along the rocky hills, we kept our eyes open for fossils. They are quite numerous in this area, and we found shells, worm casings, and other sea life imprinted into stone. That this entire area was once the floor of the ocean seemed astonishing, especially given how high up the hills we discovered fossils. How much life have these stones seen? How many climates? How long have they been out of water, then under it, then out again? While we pondered the span of eons, gorgeous constellations of lenticular clouds brought us back to the ephemeral, as they dazzled in the far sky. The air seemed textured by them, and every moment they were slightly different than the moment before. Spectacular.

After a short Zodiac ride back to the ship, we enjoyed our last buffet lunch of the trip. As usual, it was delicious. We’re going to miss the variety of these lunches.

The afternoon saw us ashore once more, this time in Colesbukta, an abandoned Soviet coal transport station. It was here that coal was loaded onto ships to be carried back to the mainland, and there are many ruins of buildings, docks, coal chutes, bridges, etc. All are in extreme disrepair, so exploring inside any of the buildings was completely out of the question. It was heartening to see that someone was making good use of the ruins, however: dozens of Arctic terns had made their nests on and around the buildings, favoring one flat-roofed building in particular. A few fluffy chicks could be seen, their coloration already very close to that of their parents. The adults were still very watchful, more than ready to dive-bomb anyone foolish enough to stray too close to the nests. They were also very busy catching fish to feed to their rapidly growing youngsters. Their calls were loud and frequent, and it was great fun watching them.

The long hikers finally had a chance to see what a long hike was all about. After a three-hour traverse across a meadow, up a steep ridge, around a high plateau where they got great views of reindeer, and finally down another steep ridge, they were feeling the day’s events. But they all came down smiling, and (most) were glad they went. The medium hikers took a less ambitious route up a hill to find a path across a glacial moraine. When they finally found the path, it turned out to be much lower down, but some cool discoveries were made on the diversion, including a reindeer skeleton with a fully articulated spine. They explored around the ruins of the large coal processing plant, then headed up to the cemetery and a decent view of reindeer. Occasionally someone would inadvertently kick a rock and look down to see that it was actually a piece of coal. It was an odd reminder that coal, too, is a rock, albeit a flammable one.

After a long, wonderful day of hiking and exploring, we returned to the ship to get cleaned up for the Captain’s farewell. Prosecco or orange juice in hand, we toasted the Captain, the ship’s crew, the guides, and of course, our Expedition Leader, Adam. We were then treated to the slide show of our trip created by guide Gabi. What a fantastic reminder this will be of some of the things we saw and did during these ten days. (So. Many. Bears!)

As night fell, the vessel turned toward Longyearbyen, sailing quietly under the low Arctic sky, closing another chapter in the high latitudes with memories of wildlife, weather, and the deep silence of the sea.

The time had arrived to say our goodbyes and leave the ship that had been our home throughout this unforgettable voyage around Svalbard. After days of adventure, wildlife encounters and stunning Arctic landscapes, we returned to where it all started in Longyearbyen.

Following one last breakfast together, we disembarked the lovely Ortelius at 8:30 in the morning. There was no shortage of emotion as we hugged the Ortelius family and said our farewells. The bonds we had formed during the journey made it especially hard to part ways with the team who had guided, supported and shared every step of the experience.

Our luggage had already been offloaded and was waiting on the dock. With bags in hand and memories to treasure, we stepped off the pier. Some of us were heading off on new adventures, while others began the trip home, each carrying a piece of the Arctic with us.

Richard Bach wrote in his book "Illusions" that goodbyes are necessary for the next reunion in the future. Perhaps this thought can serve as a consolation, and we can wait patiently and happily for the next opportunity to be together again.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1039 nautical miles

Most northern point sailed: 81°00.841 N, 015°12.’343 E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster, Expedition Leader Adam Burke, Hotel Manager William Barnes and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a great pleasure and a privilege travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team