OTL08-25, trip log, Around Spitsbergen, In the realm of polar bear & ice

Today will be remembered in a different way. We have traveled from different parts of the world, speaking different languages, but bringing with us the hope of enjoying a few unforgettable days aboard the MV Ortelius.

At 4pm, we were all ready to board the ship on the main pier and start our amazing journey.

Just after 6:00 PM, the ship set sailing leaving Longyearbyen behind us and almost immediately we were called to receive safety instructions that would be very useful for the following days. As MV Ortelius slowly pulled away from the harbour, northern fulmars joined us, effortlessly gliding alongside the ship. The moment of departure had truly arrived, and a shared sense of excitement buzzed in the crisp Arctic air. The sense of departure was real now, and excitement filled the air.

After the mandatory class and practice in front of the lifeboats, we left the life jackets in our cabins and went to the bar where we received the official welcome from Captain Remet and our Expedition Leader, Adam. Champagne or orange juice set the stage to enjoy the little delicacies that the chefs prepared on board.

Then we started getting to know each other, creating new friendships with people we had never seen before and with whom we would share great Arctic experiences.

The dinner pleasantly surprised us, organized by the Manager of the Hotel, William. The restaurant looked magnificent and the waiters attended to us with a unique friendliness and charisma.

A voice announced that you will be called deck by deck to go to the Lecture Room on Deck 3 to collect your Muck Boots, ready to start early in the morning.

Just as we were starting to settle into the rhythm of ship life, excitement struck again. Two male sperm whales—and not long after, a minke whale—were spotted off the bow. We all rushed outside, hearts pounding, and watched in awe as these massive creatures surfaced gracefully in the distance. It was an unforgettable, magical welcome to the adventures ahead.

We went to rest, dreaming of where we would wake up tomorrow, what landscapes would accumulate in our retinas, and how we would discover the Arctic fauna.

After our first breakfast on board, we attended the mandatory AECO and zodiac safety briefings, then headed out for our inaugural Zodiac trip. Boarding and disembarking takes some getting used to, but we soon got the hang of it.

We cruised around the beautiful bird cliffs of Fjortende Julibukta, where we saw lots of kittiwakes, common guillemots, and a few black guillemots. The birds everyone was most excited to see, however, were the puffins. Scattered amongst all the other species, some basking in sunlight like lords overlooking their kingdom, these colorful little birds were the show stopping favorites. They flew above our heads and in front of our boats, flitting quickly by to the utter delight of all.

As we made our way to the glacier, several curious harbor seals popped their heads up around our zodiacs. Their deep black eyes looked from boat to boat as their dark gray heads glistened in the sunlight. Realizing that we neither brought food, were food, nor wanted to use them as food, they went peacefully on their way, and we continued toward the glacier front.

Approaching the glacier, we saw streaks of movement on the left-hand beach: reindeer! At least four of the animals were running through the sand, from what we couldn’t tell. Eventually they calmed and began grazing on the Lilliputian vegetation, and all was quiet again.

The glacier itself was something to behold, its size difficult to judge without something to provide perspective. Growlers and other small pieces of ice dotted the bay, and some of the guides grabbed pieces to be passed around, allowing us to see the imbedded air bubbles. Some intrepid guests even tasted the ice; it was, of course, salty due to the exterior being coated in ocean water.

Back aboard the ship, we had a scrumptious buffet lunch. Who knew that a buffet could taste this delicious?

Once the briefings were complete, we made our way down the gangway and wandered among colorful wooden buildings, scientific stations, and wide-open surroundings. The crisp air and profound remoteness were unmistakable.

The afternoon found us pier side at Ny-Ålesund, the only outing of the trip where we are not required to wear our waterproof layers and muck boots to get off the ship. A settlement of international scientific research stations and former coal mining town, Ny-Ålesund has a little for everyone: science, history, a museum, a shop, even a post office. Some guests were lucky enough to see their first Arctic fox of the trip sauntering over a meadow just outside the settlement, while others watched a harbor seal swimming along the shore near the historic airship mast. Ringed plovers skittered across the ground, noticeable only because of their movement, so good is their camouflage, while Arctic terns soared above us.

After a long wander around, we all gathered back aboard the ship for a recap of the day from Adam and to hear what is planned for tomorrow. Emily then taught us more about Arctic terns, their biology, and their incredible migrations – to Antarctica and back! Jodi then told us the story of Saloman August Andrée and his ill-fated attempt to reach the North Pole in a hydrogen balloon in 1897.

We concluded the planned itinerary for the day with our first plated dinner. Delicious.

We awoke at 7:15 AM to the soft, dulcet tones of Adam’s wake-up call and were immediately greeted by a spectacular view of the Monacobreen Glacier. The bay was mirror-still, resembling a tranquil lake scattered with brash ice and sculptural icebergs in a variety of shapes and sizes.

After breakfast, we boarded the Zodiacs and headed towards the glacier. The peaks of the surrounding mountains were shrouded in cloud, creating a dramatic backdrop. The cruise began on a high with our first pinniped sightings: two bearded seals. One lay resting on an ice floe, allowing us a closer look at its impressive moustache. The second seal was in the water, swimming purposefully as it searched for the perfect spot to haul out.

As we wove our way through the ice, the symphony of sounds was unforgettable, the constant crackling and popping as air escaped from the ice. Birdlife was abundant, we observed kittiwakes, guillemots, Arctic skuas, glaucous gulls, northern fulmars, Arctic terns, and we even spotted the elusive ivory gull.

Both Monacobreen and Seligerbreen—glaciers that were once connected as recently as 2015 were highly active throughout the morning. Several impressive calving events occurred, the most dramatic just as we were returning to Ortelius. With a thunderous roar, a massive column of glacial ice broke away and plunged into the water, a breath-taking reminder of nature’s raw power.

During lunch, we cruised slowly through the ice-choked waters of Liefdefjorden, leaving Monacobreen behind as we repositioned for our afternoon landing at the historic site of Texas Bar. The weather was exceptional, the calm waters and clear skies provided panoramic views of the surrounding Arctic wilderness.

A short Zodiac ride brought us ashore, where we were free to roam within a safe perimeter established by our vigilant expedition guides scouting for polar bears. It was a pleasure to stretch our legs and explore the tundra flora, with the moss campion looking particularly beautiful. Rao was stationed at the old trapper’s hut, originally built in 1927 by Norwegian trappers Hilmar Nøis and Martin Petterson Nøis, who constructed several such cabins across the region. Many of us took the opportunity to step inside and take some photos.

Back aboard Ortelius, we gathered for the evening recap, where we learned about the exciting plans for the following day’s journey north into the ice. Rao gave an insightful talk on Monacobreen’s glacial dynamics, followed by Hazel’s informative introduction to whale watching, highlighting key features to help identify different species.

All in all, another unforgettable day aboard Ortelius, filled with Arctic wonder, wildlife encounters, and stunning scenery.

Today was dedicated to exploring the mysterious and shifting world of the pack ice, in search of polar bears. We spent the day navigating north through the ice floes, eyes on binoculars and scopes, scanning every ridge and shadow for signs of movement.

The atmosphere matched the Arctic’s ever-changing mood, a mix of fog and sunshine, with visibility constantly shifting. Between ice watches, the team offered a series of engaging lectures: Aitana shared insights into sea ice dynamics and its critical role in the polar ecosystem, Mark dove into the birdlife of Svalbard, and Hazel explored the lives of polar bears.

Just as we were wrapping up recap, and five minutes before dinner, Mark spotted movement in the distance. A bear! The bridge quickly confirmed the sighting, and we changed course to approach. As we edged closer through the ice, we found ourselves in the presence of a curious polar bear. We held a respectful distance, but the bear chose to come closer, curious, calm, and commanding. It walked right up to the ship, giving everyone an unforgettable, close-up encounter.

Dinner was postponed by an hour, but no one complained, a polar bear sighting like this is worth every minute.

Later that evening, while beginning our journey south back toward the mainland, we encountered two more polar bears roaming the ice. It was a day of patience, awe, and rare privilege—three bears, three lectures, and a whole world of ice.

Truly a day to remember.

An overnight sail south from the pack ice brought the expedition team to the remote and rugged landscape of the Seven Islands, the northernmost part of the Svalbard archipelago. The morning greeted them with a curtain of fog, making a landing on Phippsøya—originally planned for the start of the day—impossible. Instead, the schedule shifted, and Zodiac cruises along the shores of neighboring Parryøya, initially slated for the afternoon, began earlier than expected.

Though the temperatures remained cold and the seas bumpy the spirit of exploration was undeterred. These islands carry a legacy of Arctic discovery, with four of them named in honor of prominent explorers: Constantine Phipps, William Parry, Horatio Nelson, and Friderich Martens. Their names echo across the dramatic cliffs, stark beaches, and windswept tundra of this dramatic and beautiful region.

During the morning Zodiac excursion, a Walrus haul-out offered a memorable wildlife encounter. Several curious Walruses slipped into the water and approached the Zodiacs, offering guests a close-up view of these Arctic giants in their natural element. Birdlife added to the experience, with sightings of black guillemots bobbing along the water and a lone pomarine skua circling overhead.

In the afternoon, conditions improved enough to allow a hike on Parryøya. Groups split into long, medium, and short hikes, each offering a unique perspective of the island’s scenery. Along the way, hikers spotted driftwood from Siberia scattered along the shores, fox tracks imprinted in the sandy beach and tufts of resilient Arctic grass that clung to life in the rocky soil. Birders enjoyed the sight of an Arctic skuas gliding across the low sky.

The highly anticipated postponed polar plunge was once again aborted with a reminder of the region’s wild unpredictability: a polar bear was spotted nearby, prompting a swift and professional evacuation back to the ship. Safety remained the top priority, but the sighting was a thrilling reminder that in this remote corner of the world, humans are only visitors in a domain ruled by nature.

Despite shifting plans and challenging weather, the day offered a rich tapestry of Arctic wildlife, dramatic landscapes, and unforgettable experiences in the high north.

This morning began very early, with a 6 AM Zodiac cruise to the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet. On these sheer cliffs nest 60,000 breeding pairs of Brünnich’s guillemots, and the air rang with the laughing calls of 120,000 birds. There was a constant cloud of wings overhead as thousands of birds flew back and forth between their rocky nests and the ocean to bathe and feed. Rarely, a chick could be seen; many adults were still incubating eggs. As they raced overhead, a few of these travelers “decorated” the Zodiacs and passengers. Occasionally a guillemot would pop up from beneath the surface of the water right next to a Zodiac, then skitter away as though it were trying to run on the water with its wings.

At the far side of the cliffs nest a colony of kittiwakes. Their “kit-ti-waaaaake” calls were not quite as raucous as the guillemots, but only because there were fewer of them. The birds were quite animated, and we soon discovered why: there was an Arctic fox on the prowl in their midst. The fox had already caught its lunch; it had a bird in its mouth as it trotted along, first across, then up the cliff. It ascended a steep snow slope as though it were flat ground. We were all duly impressed.

Long camera lenses and spotting scopes proved very difficult to use as the ocean was quite active. The Zodiacs bobbed like fishing tackle, and embarking and disembarking required patience and wise timing. This was definitely one of the more adventurous Zodiac cruises we’ve experienced thus far.

Back on board, it was finally time for breakfast – and for some, a nap.

As we sailed to our next destination, a small spattering of lucky passengers spotted a minke whale, but it decided to not bask in the spotlight too long. It was gone before most of us caught a glimpse of it.

We sailed on to Palanderbukta, where we went for a hike over a gorgeous polar desert. Normally a fairly lifeless terrain, we were delighted to discover many tiny Arctic flowers and lichens there.

Frost circles and upheavals made beautiful patterns in the landscape, and the occasional purple sandpiper dashed in front of us. We discovered an inland glacier not visible from the sea, and the colors were mesmerizing. Though the surface was coated with layers of dust and dirt, the bright blues of glacial ice still shone through, bright and unmistakable. The quiet of the landscape was deeply serene for those who had the chance to enjoy it.

Alas, the quiet must eventually end, and we soon enough found ourselves back in the hustle and bustle of the ship. We enjoyed a hearty lunch – had we really done all of this before lunchtime? – and relaxed in the bar as we made our next transit. A lecture on the history of whaling given by Jodi helped to pass the time, as did an unexpected opportunity to see more walruses hauled out on a beach as we passed. A few more naps, and it was time for dinner. As we finished yet another amazing meal, we arrived at our third destination of the day: Bråsvellbreen, a massive tidal glacier that, along with its connected neighbor Austfonna, creates a 180 km wide ice front, complete with gorgeous waterfalls cascading into the sea. It was a beautiful, peaceful sight, and a wonderful way to wrap up a busy day.

We began the day with a landing at Sundneset, greeted by calm conditions and expansive views across the tundra. Our walk took us over gentle hills dotted with reindeer carcasses, a stark reminder of the Arctic’s brutal cycles. Birdlife was abundant, filling the silence with calls and flight.

But the real magic came in the form of Arctic foxes. We first spotted two of them curled up, sleeping in the sun. As they woke and stretched, a third fox appeared, and it quickly became clear these were young siblings. What followed was a breathtaking display of playful energy, they tumbled through moss, tugged on tufts of reindeer fur, and wrestled with each other in pure, wild joy. It was one of those rare encounters that leaves everyone smiling.

In the afternoon, we headed to Diskobukta, originally planning a landing. But while scouting from the ship, we spotted a polar bear family in the distance, a mother with two cubs. The landing was quickly cancelled, and we prepared for a Zodiac cruise instead.

Though the conditions were rough with sizeable waves, our guests braved the elements, knowing the reward could be extraordinary. And it was. As we approached the shore, a fourth bear appeared, walking along the beach with confidence and grace. At one point, all four bears were visible in a single frame, an unforgettable sight.

It was a day of contrasts: the stillness of playful foxes in the morning, and the raw power of polar bears in the wild sea light of the afternoon.

This morning, we embarked on our planned Zodiac cruise to Burgerbukta. The early morning low fog, softly tinged with sunlight, wrapped the scenery outside the boat in an extraordinarily mysterious aura.

The steep mountain slopes lining both sides of the fjord and the icebergs scattered within it flickered in and out of view—here a jagged peak peeking through the mist, there a glint of blue ice vanishing into the haze. Faint sounds drifted to our ears: the high-pitched calls of kittiwakes circling above, and the gentle gurgle of waterfalls cascading down distant cliffs, muffled by the fog.

We drifted slowly along the west bank of the fjord, our engine barely a whisper against the quiet of the Arctic. Suddenly, ahead of us, through the thinning mist, a movement in the water caught our eye. Along the coast at the foot of a hanging glacier, pure white shapes broke the surface, then disappeared again—repeatedly, like ghosts dancing on the water, and that is --belugas!

The pilots, wordlessly respecting the moment, cut the engines to avoid disturbing these aquatic elves—switching to gliding quietly with oars.

Along the coastline and the glacier’s frosty edge, the belugas were feeding intensively, their white forms dotting the water like scattered snowflakes. The Zodiac drifted silently with the calm current, as if suspended in time, while we watched, breathless, as the belugas moved in sync with the rhythm of the Arctic.

In the afternoon, we landed at Gashmna for a hiking expedition.

The long hiking group faced the toughest physical challenge of the entire voyage—traversing rugged terrain that tested their endurance. Meanwhile, the two medium groups were rewarded with stunning views: one at the bird cliffs, where seabirds wheeled above the waves, and the other along the coastline, where the Arctic ocean met the land in a quiet embrace.

Here, we encountered echoes of the past: weathered whale bones, remnants of the whaling era, half-buried in the tundra. In the distance, the landscape bore the marks of the present: moraines stretching in all directions, left behind by retreating glaciers—a silent testament to the changing Arctic.

As the landing activity drew to a close, brave souls took a leap (quite literally): stripping off their jackets, they plunged into the frigid sea, challenging themselves with a polar ice swim. The cold water bit at their skin, but their laughter echoed across the bay—adding a vivid, unforgettable chapter to our voyage.

The afternoon ended with tired but grinning faces. We had hiked, explored, reflected on history, and witnessed nature’s power—and for those who took the plunge, they had even touched the soul of the Arctic. It was a day of contrasts: effort and reward, past and present, calm and daring—all woven into the fabric of our Arctic adventure.

The day began quietly at Poolepynten, wrapped in the kind of calm that only rain and low cloud can bring to the High Arctic. Despite the moody weather, a special sight awaited the early risers—walruses, thick-skinned and formidable, were hauled out on the shingle beach.

Their massive bodies lay in a jumbled, blubbery heap, occasionally shifting or raising a whiskered head. Offshore, puffins flitted about the ship, their colorful beaks and frantic wingbeats adding a splash of charm to the otherwise gray morning.

Originally, the plan for the afternoon was to visit Alkhornet, a dramatic headland known for its bird cliffs and the potential to spot Arctic Fox. However, thick fog rolled in, making scouting for polar bears impossible and forcing the expedition team to cancel the landing for safety reasons. In its place, Emily, one of the onboard specialists, delivered an insightful lecture titled Protecting Our Noisy Oceans. Drawing from her years of experience in the offshore oil and gas sector, she explored the impacts of industrial underwater noise on marine life—and the importance of mitigating these effects in an increasingly busy ocean.

Later in the day, the ship cruised past Barentsburg, the Russian mining settlement that stands as a cultural and historical counterpoint to the otherwise stark Arctic wilderness. Though the visit was brief, the glimpse of Soviet-era buildings and signs in Cyrillic served as a reminder of the human presence that persists in these remote latitudes.

As evening settled in, Captains Cocktails and the slideshow presentation took place before dinner while the ship headed toward the shelf edge, in the hope of spotting whales. With the horizon stretching into infinite shades of blue and gray, the sense of anticipation was palpable. While sightings can never be guaranteed, the experience of scanning the vast, open ocean—knowing that giants may be moving silently just below the surface—was its own kind of thrill.

After dinner time while everyone was having their last catch up and sharing photos and memories about the trip. A sperm whale showed up. It was just like the same whale we saw on the first day and now he is greeting us again on our way back to Longyearbyen. What a wonderful way to end the trip.

As night fell, the vessel turned toward Longyearbyen, sailing quietly under the low Arctic sky, closing another chapter in the high latitudes with memories of wildlife, weather, and the deep silence of the sea.

The time had arrived to say our goodbyes and leave the ship that had been our home throughout this unforgettable voyage around Svalbard. After days of adventure, wildlife encounters and stunning Arctic landscapes, we returned to where it all started in Longyearbyen.

Following one last breakfast together, we disembarked the lovely Ortelius at 8:30 am. One last ride on the Zodiac then we are back to the civilization.

Richard Bach wrote in his book "Illusions" that goodbyes are necessary for the next reunion in the future. Perhaps this thought can serve as a consolation, and we can wait patiently and happily for the next opportunity to be together again.

Total distance sailed on our voyage: 1280 nautical miles

Most northern point sailed: 81°16.631 N, 020°27.’907 E

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Remmert Koster, Expedition Leader Adam Burke, Hotel Manager William Barnes and all the crew and staff of M/V Ortelius, it has been a great pleasure and a privilege travelling with you.

Your Oceanwide Expeditions Team