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HDS11-25, trip log, Spitsbergen - Northeast Greenland - Aurora Borealis, Including Long Hikes

by Oceanwide Expeditions

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Logbook

Day 1: Embarkation: Longyearbyen

Embarkation: Longyearbyen
Date: 23.08.2025
Position: 78°13.3’N, 015°38.8’E
Wind: SW-3
Weather: Overcast
Air Temperature: +6

Our journey to Greenland began today in Longyearbyen under surprisingly pleasant conditions for this time of year. The skies were clear, the winds were calm, and the temperature was relatively warm considering we were well within the Arctic Circle. It was definitely a welcoming start to what promises to be an incredible expedition.

Throughout the day, the crew and staff worked diligently to load the vessel with everything needed for the voyage ahead. Twenty pallets of supplies were brought on board, ensuring we were well equipped for the adventure that awaits. The expedition team and crew were ready and waiting at the pier to greet us, as we arrived with smiles and a sense of excitement for what was to come. Embarkation was smooth and well organized, beginning around 4pm at the pier.

Once on board, we had time to explore the ship and settle into our cabins. Not long after, we were called together for the mandatory safety and emergency drill. With life jackets securely fastened, we were guided through the procedures and locations that will keep us safe throughout our time at sea.

With safety formalities complete, we were invited to the lounge for the Captain’s Welcome Cocktail. Captain Ernesto greeted us warmly and set the tone for the voyage ahead. Expedition Leader Chris then introduced the rest of the expedition team, each one clearly passionate and ready to share their knowledge and enthusiasm for the Arctic.

We then made our way to the dining room for our first dinner on board. As we enjoyed a hearty meal, the ship gently pulled away from the dock. Many of us gathered on the deck after dinner to take in the spectacular views of Longyearbyen fading into the distance. With the soft Arctic light casting a golden hue over the mountains, our expedition had well and truly begun.

Day 2: Ny Ålesund, Ny London

Ny Ålesund, Ny London
Date: 24.08.2025
Position: 78°55.5’N, 011°55.3’E
Wind: SE-3
Weather: Overcast
Air Temperature: +6

Today began in the northernmost permanent settlement on earth, Ny-Ålesund. We woke early, the cold Arctic air crisp and biting, even in late August. The town was quiet, almost surreal. A light mist hovered over the landscape, and the fjord lay still like glass, reflecting the sharp peaks of the surrounding mountains.

Ny-Ålesund is small, with only a handful of colourful buildings, but it carries a heavy sense of purpose. It is not just a town, but also a research hub, brimming with international scientists studying everything from climate change to glacial movement. We wandered through the settlement, passing the old mining railway tracks that remind you this was once a coal mining town before it was repurposed for science.

We visited the mast where Roald Amundsen’s airship, Norge was moored in 1926 before flying over the North Pole. We felt something haunting about standing in a place so steeped in exploration history.

In the afternoon, we journeyed by boat to Ny-London, located on Blomstrandhalvøya across Kongsfjorden. The contrast to Ny-Ålesund was striking. It was meant to be a marble mining settlement founded by Ernest Mansfield in the early 20th century, but the marble was of poor quality, and the project failed almost before it began.

We encountered rusted machinery, wooden buildings slowly giving in to the Arctic wind, and a sense of dreams left unfinished. The nature found itself reclaiming the area, with moss and lichen crawling over the old tools and foundations. We walked slowly among the ruins, taking photos and trying to imagine the hope people must have brought with them, only to leave disappointed.

There were Arctic terns circling above and reindeer tracks in the soft tundra. It’s amazing how quickly the wilderness reminds you that humans are temporary guests in this environment.

Today was a powerful reminder of two quite different human footprints in the Arctic: one of scientific pursuit and perseverance in Ny-Ålesund, and one of ambition and abandonment in Ny-London. Both towns tell a story, not just of the Arctic, but of what we seek here — knowledge, opportunity, and sometimes, redemption. We cannot wait to see what tomorrow brings.

Day 3: At Sea towards Greenland

At Sea towards Greenland
Date: 25.08.2025
Position: 77°23.3’N, 001°00.7’W
Wind: SSW-1
Weather: Overcast
Air Temperature: 0

The ship slowly departed from the fjords of Svalbard, like a silver plow cutting through the dark silk of the Arctic Ocean. Outside the window stretched an endless gray-blue horizon.

Our day at sea began with a fun and engaging photography lecture. At 9:15 AM, Juan hosted a lecture on practical photography skills, including how to use a camera, develop photographic concepts, adjust camera settings and modes, and compose shots. Before the lecture, he briefly shared how he embarked on his photography journey and became a polar expedition team member. Many guests brought their cameras and participated attentively throughout the session.

After the workshop, guests spent their leisure time in several ways. Some stayed in the observation lounge chatting, others bundled up and walked on the outer deck to feel the Arctic Ocean breeze. Some browsed through books of Greenlandic Inuit prints in the library, while others enjoyed coffee while watching documentaries about the Arctic. After a short break, at 11:15 AM, Josh and Rose, held history lectures in English and Chinese respectively, in the observation lounge and lecture room. The topic was André's Arctic balloon expedition.

Following lunch and a rest, we held a briefing session for passengers who had signed up for the long-distance hike in Greenland. Since the number of initially registered participants was relatively small, we decided to hold the session in a smaller lecture room. Surprisingly, after the announcement was made, many guests who had not registered flocked to the room with great interest, filling it to capacity. Marco provided a detailed description of the scenery and precautions related to the long-distance hike. All the guests listened with great interest, some even taking photos. The briefing was simultaneously interpreted into Chinese for our Chinese guests. However, after the session, most guests hesitated and left the room with smiles, and, about twenty passengers confirmed their participation in the hike.

At 4:15 PM, like the morning history lectures, Joyce and Jerry hosted lectures in English and Chinese in the lecture hall and observation lounge, respectively, on marine mammals. They shared knowledge about the types of mammals that can be seen in the Arctic and how to identify distinct species of whales. After the lecture, many guests stayed behind to ask the expedition team about the wildlife they might encounter and when they could see them. It was clear that the lecture had sparked their excitement to witness these magnificent marine mammals in person.

At 6:00 PM, Chris introduced the next day’s itinerary. The day at sea concluded with documentary screenings after dinner, bringing today’s journey to a close.

Day 4: Approaching Greenland

Approaching Greenland
Date: 26.08.2025
Position: 76°02.8’N, 016°38.7’W
Wind: SW-5
Weather: Sunny
Air Temperature: +7

Our day began early with an excited wake-up announcement at 5:45 AM, calling us to the outer decks to witness one of nature’s most tranquil spectacles — a breathtaking Arctic sunrise. The ship was nestled among the expansive ice pack, and as the first golden rays pierced the horizon, the ice glistened like scattered diamonds. It was a peaceful and meditative start to the day, reminding us of the silent majesty of this remote part of the world.

After taking in the serene beauty of the morning light, we headed inside for a warm breakfast, fueling up for the day ahead. Later in the morning, KJ delivered a highly engaging introductory lecture on Greenland. With insight and enthusiasm, he introduced us to the region’s dramatic landscapes, its sparse but resilient human population, diverse wildlife, and surprisingly varied vegetation. His talk laid a rich foundation for our upcoming days exploring Greenland's rugged coastlines.

Following lunch, we resumed our journey through the icy labyrinth. The ship gently carved its path through the dense pack ice, surrounded by frozen floes. The sun hung high in the clear blue sky, casting a radiant light over the white seascape. Northern fulmars soared effortlessly alongside the vessel, their graceful presence adding life to the otherwise still surroundings.

Then came a rare and unexpected treat: a majestic gyrfalcon, the largest falcon in the world, briefly touched down on Deck 8. Its powerful yet elegant presence captivated everyone, fortunate enough to witness it. Moments like this, fleeting but unforgettable, are what make polar expeditions so magical.

About two hours into our afternoon sailing, the ship broke free from the ice and entered open water. Around the same time, Marco and Jerry began a lecture on the science and dynamics of sea ice. Their talks were both informative and timely, given the dramatic transition we had experienced from ice to sea.

Midway through the session, an unexpected announcement electrified the ship: a bowhead whale had been spotted swimming close to Hondius. Our lecture came to an immediate pause as everyone rushed to the bow and outer decks, eyes scanning the waves in excitement. Though the elusive giant made only a brief appearance before slipping back into the deep, the thrill of the sighting and the collective effort to find it made for a memorable interlude. After about 20 minutes of scanning the sea, we returned to the lecture hall to complete the final part of the session.

As evening approached, we gathered for dinner, sharing stories and photos from the day, still buzzing from the close encounters and Arctic wonders. With full stomachs and full hearts, we turned our attention to the next chapter of the journey: the first landing in Greenland.

Day 5: Clavering Ø

Clavering Ø
Date: 27.08.2025
Position: 74°06.8’ N, 020°52.2‘W
Wind: SW 2
Weather: Cloudy
Air Temperature: +11

The day began at sunrise with a 3:30AM wake up call. Despite the early hour, there was a quiet buzz of excitement as we stepped out onto the deck. A gentle breeze greeted us as we watched a spectacular sunrise unfold across the horizon. The light spread slowly over the dramatic Greenlandic landscape, painting the sky in soft golds and pinks. It was unusually calm and warm, a perfect weather day in a region where conditions often change quickly.

After breakfast, we had a chance to relax and enjoy the morning views from the ship before lunch was served. Then we prepared for our first landing of the day at Dodemands Bay, on Clavering Island. Once ashore, we were given the option of three hiking routes: short, medium, and long to suit each person’s interest and pace.

The terrain was striking, open and raw, with traces of ancient life scattered throughout. This bay holds deep historical significance as it is considered the last known location where the Thule people were seen. We explored the remains of winter houses and cultural structures, which offered a glimpse into a way of life long gone. Standing among the ruins with the mountains rising around us, it was impossible not to feel a strong sense of connection to the past.

After returning to the ship, we enjoyed a hearty lunch before setting off for our second landing at Eskimonaes, located further west along the coast of the same island. Here too, the group split into short, medium, and long hikes.

The weather remained sunny, although the wind picked up slightly in the afternoon. Even so, the conditions were still excellent for exploring. The area was both wild and beautiful, covered in colorful Arctic flowers and patches of soft lichen. The site was steeped in history, with the weathered remains of old Danish weather stations destroyed during the Second World War and huts once used by the Danish Sledge Patrol. These silent structures told stories of early scientific exploration and the harsh challenges faced by those who once lived and worked in this remote place.

We returned to the ship in the early evening, where the expedition team held the daily recap. This informal gathering is always a highlight, offering insights into the day’s landings, wildlife, and history, as well as a preview of what to expect tomorrow.

Dinner in the restaurant followed, with everyone sharing stories and photos from the day. The experience was topped off with another stunning sunset just after 10PM, the sky ablaze with fiery colors reflected on the calm sea.

As the light faded and the evening settled in, there was a shared feeling of fulfilment and anticipation. Today was remarkable, and we are ready for more adventures tomorrow.

Day 6: Blomsterbugten and Renbugten

Blomsterbugten and Renbugten
Date: 28.08.2025
Position: 73°19.6’N, 025°17.6’W
Wind: NW 1
Weather: Cloudy
Air Temperature: +10

We started our day in Blomsterbugten, which means ‘Flower Bay’ in old Norwegian. We are not sure exactly when it got that name, but it is easy to imagine it full of flowers in the summer. Now that it is autumn, most of the flowers are gone, but the land is still full of color. We saw the golden yellow of Arctic Willows and the deep red of bearberries and dwarf birch, beautiful fall colors. The weather was once again beautiful, with blue skies and no clouds.

When we came ashore, we found an old trapper’s hut. These huts were used by hunters, mostly to trap Arctic foxes. This one was still in good shape, and we could go inside to take a look. After exploring the hut, we hiked up into a valley. After a while, we reached a small lake. Many hikers who visit this area come to see it. The water had a brownish color, which comes from glacier melting mixed with iron from the mountains. It looked quite special.

We were lucky with the wildlife too! We saw a few Arctic hares, and best of all, we had a great view of some musk oxen in the distance. After the hike, we went back to the ship for lunch. Then we sailed for about two hours to our next stop: Renbugten. The name might mean Clean Bay or Reindeer Bay. As soon as we arrived, we got into the Zodiacs for a three-hour cruise around the bay.

Renbugten is known for its icebergs, and today they looked amazing. The ship followed us slowly into the bay, which made everything feel calm and peaceful. We could hear the distant sound of glaciers calving when ice breaks off and falls into the sea. That was a powerful sound to hear. We also saw two kinds of seals! One was a bearded seal, and the other a smaller ringed seal. Both were seen relaxing in the water.

After the cruise, we went back to the ship. There was a short recap to talk about our next day plans. Then, it was time for an outdoor BBQ! We could smell the food even before getting back onboard. There was great food, free drinks, and even music and dancing on the deck. It was a fun and cozy way to end the day, and many of us stayed outside enjoying the evening until late.

Day 7: Segelsällskapets Fjord and Alpefjord

Segelsällskapets Fjord and Alpefjord
Date: 29.08.2025
Position: 72°25.6’N, 024°33.1’W
Wind: WSW 1
Weather: Sunny
Air Temperature: +14

In the faint light of dawn, the expedition ship quietly anchored in Segelsällskapets Fjord. The sea was as calm as a vast sheet of lead-gray glass, reflecting the steep surrounding mountains. This landing site was exceptionally rich in geological formations, with exposed rock layers resembling an open textbook of earth’s history.

At 9AM, three hiking teams set out one after another. The rock formations at the landing site immediately captured everyone’s attention: black basalt and white granite interlaced in distinct striped patterns. In some areas, scratches left by glacial movement were clearly visible, with grooves of varying depths recording the history of retreating ice sheets.

While crossing the moraine plain, the middle hiking team unexpectedly encountered a musk oxen family. Five adults with two calves were foraging on the tundra, their thick fur glistening with morning dew under the sunlight. Several ptarmigans hopped among nearby gravel patches, deftly retreating into rock crevices whenever anyone approached.

At noon, everyone returned to the ship for lunch. The dining room was filled with the aroma of food, and through the portholes, people could still glimpse the extraordinary geological landscapes they had just explored. In the afternoon, our ship entered Alpefjord. Sixteen Zodiacs advanced in formation, gradually approaching the terminus of the Alpine Glacier. We gazed up at the blue ice cliffs, with layers refracting gradients from cobalt blue to emerald green. Though they did not witness the spectacular sight of calving, the low rumbling echoing from deep within the glacier reminded everyone of the immense power of this icy giant.

On the return journey, we detoured to the glacial lateral moraine area. We observed ridges of pushed-up gravel formed by glacial movement, a collection of debris composed of various rock types, like a natural museum of stones.

As the sun set, our expedition ship slowly sailed away from the fjord. Passengers on the deck watched the receding glaciers and unique rock formations, now draped in golden-red hues by the evening glow.

After nightfall, some guests spontaneously gathered in the observation lounge. Though no formal activities were arranged, small groups continued chatting late into the night. It was an unforgettable Arctic summer day, with the awe of geological wonders lingering in everyone’s hearts.

Day 8: Carlsberg fjord

Carlsberg fjord
Date: 30.08.2025
Position: 71°25.6’N, 022°26.1’W
Wind: NE 1
Weather: Fog
Air Temperature: +6

This morning, we sailed into the calm waters of Carlsbergfjord. Mother nature greeted us in her own way, with a thick blanket of fog that softened the mountains and gave the landscape a quiet, mysterious mood.

After a lush breakfast in the warm dining room, we set off into the Zodiacs for a long transit to shore. Wrapped in mist, the coastline revealed itself slowly with muted autumn colors, subtle shades of brown, gold, and grey blending into the fog. It felt like stepping into a painting.

As always, hikes of different lengths were offered, and we spread out into the wilderness. Some of us climbed up the hillside where musk oxen were grazing, their heavy silhouettes blending with the tundra. Along the beach, the last few ringed plovers darted across the sand, soon to begin their long migration south. A reminder of the turning season.

Back onboard, head chef Kabir and the galley team spoiled us with another delicious lunch, while the hotel staff made sure we were all comfortable and cared for.

The afternoon brought a long sail ahead toward tomorrow’s destination. Rose kept us company with a geology lecture in both Mandarin and English, opening a window into the story of the rocks and mountains around us. Meanwhile, some caught up on photos and stories.

As evening approached, we gathered for the daily recap, hearing the plans for tomorrow and sharing highlights from today. Soon after, the smell of dinner drew us into the dining room.

But the true highlight came just as we finished our meal. Word spread quickly, and everyone rushed outside. Before us, an unforgettable sight of more than 10 humpback whales feeding all around the ship. Everywhere we looked, blows rose into the air, tails lifted, and the ocean churned with life. Birds filled the sky and water— fulmars, kittiwakes, and to our delight, two different shearwater species: sooty and great shearwaters. Even a few pomarine skuas joined the feast.

It was a wildlife spectacle like no other. A night to remember. With full hearts, we continued our journey through the darkening Arctic waters, ready for a good night’s sleep and already excited about what tomorrow will bring.

Day 9: Vikingebugt

Vikingebugt
Date: 31.08.2025
Position: 70°21.6’N, 025°13.9’W
Wind: SW1
Weather: Clear
Air Temperature: +9

The day kicked off early with a 6:45AM wake-up call, and by 7 AM, we were fueling up on a hearty brekkie in the dining room. We knew we would need the energy – today promised to be one of those classic Arctic adventures.

By mid-morning, we were pulling on our warmest gear and heading down to the shell doors for a Zodiac cruise into Vikingebugt. This inlet is a stunner – the biggest among a string of small inlets spilling out from the mighty Scoresby Sund fjord. At about 14 kilometres long and six wide, it felt both intimate and vast at the same time. A medium-sized glacier, Bredegletscher, tumbled down from a small ice cap into the head of the bay, its ice groaning as if alive.

Then came the moment none of us will forget. As our Zodiacs edged closer to the glacier, someone spotted movement on the ice. Within minutes, we realized we weren’t looking at just one bear – but six polar bears, all gathered near the glacier’s edge. The sight was electric. Cameras clicked furiously, but for long stretches the boats sat in quiet awe as we watched these magnificent predators in their element. The crisp Arctic air carried every sound – the cracking of ice, the distant call of seabirds, and, beneath it all, our thumping hearts. It was a perfect sighting, and everyone was buzzing with excitement as we reluctantly pulled away.

But what set Vikingebugt apart were the basalt cliffs. Towering hexagonal columns of rock stood guard over the inlet, looking like something straight out of a giant’s toolbox. As the Zodiacs drifted close, the scale of it all really hit us – it was like paddling through nature’s own cathedral.

After hours on the water, the chill eventually seeped in, so we headed back aboard for a hot buffet lunch. The afternoon brought a change of pace. Kana gathered us in the lecture room for a language exchange, sharing the basics of Mandarin and sparking lively conversations as English and Mandarin speakers swapped words and laughs.

Later in the day, Koen held court in the Observation Lounge, walking us through the story of Polar Bears – how the polar bear survives in the harsh conditions. His passion was contagious, and the talk left us seeing this amazing creature with fresh eyes.

As evening set in, we joined the expedition team for the daily recap, swapping highlights from the morning cruise and piecing together the bigger picture of our journey.

Dinner followed, and then, as night drew in, we gathered once more. Eric, the mountaineer, took the floor in the Observation Lounge, spinning tales from his extraordinary life on the world’s great peaks. His words carried both grit and inspiration – a perfect way to close out an unforgettable day.

Vikingebugt had lived up to its reputation: wild, raw, and utterly mesmerizing. Another notch in the belt of this Arctic adventure.

Day 10: Harefjord and Rypefjord

Harefjord and Rypefjord
Date: 01.09.2025
Position: 70°55.2’N, 027°35.4’W
Wind: NNW
Weather: Sunny
Air Temperature: +7

We awoke this morning to calm seas and crisp Arctic air, ready for another day of adventure in the stunning wilderness of East Greenland. After breakfast, we boarded the Zodiacs for an exhilarating morning cruise through ice-strewn waters, and what a cruise it was!

Our first sightings included a small group of musk oxen grazing on the tundra — a rare and exciting encounter. These shaggy, prehistoric-looking animals were a true highlight, and we were lucky to observe them at a respectable distance without disturbing their peaceful morning.

Shortly after, we glided past gigantic icebergs, their towering forms casting mirrored reflections on the glassy water. Each iceberg was uniquely sculpted by time, wind, and water — natural works of art. The stillness of the fjord was briefly interrupted when a bearded seal was spotted resting serenely on a small floe. With its thick whiskers and soulful eyes, it seemed unbothered by our presence, offering fantastic photo opportunities.

After returning to the ship, we warmed up with a hearty lunch while enjoying views of the surrounding ice and mountains from the comfort of the dining room.

In the afternoon, we made a perimeter landing along the shores of Harefjord, a truly breathtaking location. The weather graced us with warm sunshine and clear skies, a rare treat in these latitudes. The landing was a relaxed one, giving everyone the opportunity to soak in the panoramic views, sit quietly among the rocks and tundra, or photograph the landscape to their heart’s content. Some guests even enjoyed a quiet moment journaling or sketching, inspired by the serene beauty of the fjord.

As the sun dipped lower, casting golden hues across the mountain ridges, we returned to Hondius for our evening recap and briefing. The Expedition Team shared their insights on the day’s sightings and revealed the exciting plans for tomorrow’s explorations, promising even more adventure ahead.

Another unforgettable day in the Arctic, marked by nature’s grandeur and the quiet joy of shared discovery.

Day 11: Sydkap, Greenland

Sydkap, Greenland
Date: 02.09.2025
Position: 71°17.8’N, 024°57.1’W
Wind: SW 1
Weather: Overcast
Air Temperature: +4

We awoke this morning to some substantial fog in the fjord as we approached our morning activity spot at Sydkap. However, our luck was in with the weather gods again, and as the morning progressed the fog began to lift, and we were able to go ashore only slightly delayed from our original timings. The small delay also meant we were able to enjoy our delicious breakfast for a little while longer.

Some of us joined the long hike for the day with our guides Marco, Kana and Juan, and took a thoroughly enjoyable trip across the tundra. Heading south to begin with along the coastline, the group then headed inland and to higher elevations for lunch, before finally descending into a beautiful valley with a small beach in the mid-afternoon.

Those who opted for a medium and short walk in the morning spent timing exploring the coastal tundra area near the landing site and taking in the ancient Thule ruins overlooking the beach. Some of us were lucky enough to spot a Lemming and get some photographs as it darted in and out of its burrow.

The area around Sydkap is littered with giant icebergs which have become grounded in the fjords, and it made for a truly spectacular backdrop throughout the day. Some of the huge tabular bergs near our afternoon landing site even back to calve and send massive amounts of ice into the water below with the sound echoing around the fjord.

For those who braved the slopes of the afternoon landing, further along the shore at Sydkap and nearby to two old hunting houses, were rewarded for their perseverance with magnificent views across Scoresby Sund. A few Arctic hares were polite enough to allow many of us to get some good views as they sat sunning themselves in the afternoon light. There were also some brief views of an Arctic Fox walking along the ridge line with its winter coat beginning to come in.

After all the fresh air and the exploring ashore, many of us were delighted to sit back and relax in the evening with another entertaining recap and a delicious dinner to follow. Of course, the giant icebergs hadn’t gone anywhere, and we continued to enjoy these in the golden, evening light as we sailed east towards are destinations for tomorrow.

Day 12: Hurry Inlet and Ittoqqortoormiit

Hurry Inlet and Ittoqqortoormiit
Date: 03.09.2025
Position: 70°37.2’N, 022°27.7’W
Wind: NW 6
Weather: Overcast
Air Temperature: +6,5

How strange and sad it feels to realize that the last day of our outdoor operations has arrived. The beautiful Greenlandic nature, it seemed, was not in the mood either: low clouds hung over the tundra, gusty winds stirred the waters of the fjord, and fine drizzle would start from time to time, making us pull our hoods over our heads.

The final walk through the tundra was filled with melancholy. Some of us, deciding to tire ourselves out properly one last time, set off on a long hike, while others chose a shorter walk, and some preferred simply wandering leisurely within the protected perimeter not far from the landing site.

High up on the slope grazed a musk ox, flocks of geese moved from place to place, preparing for their long migration south, newly fledged ringed plovers fluttered about, whistling cheerfully. Firm ground underfoot gave way now and then to soft boggy mosses, the last flowers of purple saxifrage and arctic mouse ear stretched hopelessly toward the sky, while the leaves of the dwarf birch, adding joyful colors to the rainy autumn landscape, glowed with crimson and yellow.

As always, time flew by too quickly, and around 1PM we were already back on board the ship. The next stop – the peculiar settlement of Ittoqqortoormiit.

The dark, low clouds seemed determined to outdo the drabness of the settlement. Somewhere nearby, the muffled howling of dogs could be heard. The concrete street, along which locals sped back and forth on their ATVs, became the main artery of our walk through the village. The museum was closed, but the church was open — probably the most cheerful place around. Three lively Inuit women gladly posed for photos, while organ music floated from the speakers.

Black ravens circled constantly above the village, searching for food and a place to perch. From time to time, some landed on lampposts, croaking loudly. A few of us even saw Arctic hares that had somehow wandered into the settlement.

The locals looked at us with curiosity and friendliness. Local children, kicking a football along the streets, shyly tried to speak English with us. Some, however, were more confident and eagerly told us about their joyful childhood lives among the colorful houses on the mountainside.

That was Ittoqqortoormiit: white hares, blue streetlights, black ravens, bleak houses.

When it was time for dinner, we returned to the ship. Soon the anchor was lifted, and Hondius, under Captain Ernesto’s command, set course for Iceland. The shores of Greenland, veiled in clouds, faded away behind us.

Day 13: Heading towards Iceland

Heading towards Iceland
Date: 04.09.2025
Position: 67°59.7’N, 019°40.8’W
Wind: NNE
Weather: Overcast
Air Temperature: +4

We woke up lulled by the gentle movement of Hondius, making her way at a steady pace of 13 knots across the Denmark Strait — the oceanic passage that separates Eastern Greenland from Iceland, our final inbound destination for this trip.

Unfortunately, some of us had to deal with a bit of seasickness, but for the most part, everyone was up and about. After a leisurely breakfast, it was time for the day’s first lecture, given by Koen, about his personal experience as a whale-watching guide — first in Iceland, and later in Tonga. Watching his videos and pictures of those gentle marine giants swimming past and willingly interacting up close was very moving.

The morning talk was followed in the lecture room by Chris’s presentation on the different voyages Oceanwide has offered in the polar regions over the last three decades. It was fascinating and inspiring to hear his personal accounts of special trips in Antarctica, such as the Deep Weddell Sea Explorer, the Ross Sea Odyssey, and the Snow Hill Emperor Penguins expedition.

Then it was time for lunch and a little rest, as Hondius continued plowing through the waves heading south. The heavy swells from earlier in the morning had died down a bit, although visibility and fog had not improved much.

The afternoon passed quickly while most of us were idling in our cabins. Soon it was time for Meike to introduce us to the magnificent world of Greenlandic dogs. Her presentation was well-delivered, full of interesting information and facts about this unique breed that is so valuable along the coast of the island we had just left behind.

Before dinner, we were invited to this voyage’s final recap: the Captain’s Goodbye Ceremony. Sasha presented a beautiful slideshow — a summary of this amazing trip filled with memories of the unforgettable geological marvels of Eastern Greenland National Park, the elusive yet unique wildlife we were fortunate to observe, and the incredible scenery and landscapes we experienced over the past couple of weeks.

Plated dinner was served one last time in the dining room, now filled with the excitement of conversations among new friends. A sweet token of appreciation for the hardworking Hondius crew followed, as the entire team who made this voyage possible was introduced by the Hotel Manager, Albert. We finally had a chance to appreciate the faces of those incredible people who had worked tirelessly to make our vacation so special and comfortable.

In the distance, Eyjafjörður slowly became visible, and the lights of our port city, Akureyri, began dotting the horizon. One last drink in the lounge to celebrate, before heading back to our cabins to pack our belongings.

Day 14: Akureyri

Akureyri
Date: 05.09.2025
Position: 65°41.1’N, 018°06.1’W
Wind: NE 2
Weather: Rain
Air Temperature: +9

The wakeup call came at 7:15AM, but many of us were already up, quietly packing and taking in the final views from our cabin windows. The ship had docked in Akureyri, and with it came the bittersweet realization that our Arctic journey had come to an end.

After placing our bags in the hallway for transfer, we headed to the dining room for one last breakfast together. The mood was calm and reflective. We shared stories, laughed softly, and lingered a little longer over coffee than usual.

At around 8:15AM, we were called to the Lecture Room on Deck 5 for passport checks with Icelandic customs. There was an efficiency to it all, and before long, we were stepping off Hondius for the final time at about 8:45AM.

Those of us travelling to Reykjavik by coach made sure to take our luggage and said our goodbyes on the pier. There were hugs, promises to keep in touch, and one last look back at the ship that had carried us through ice, sea, and silence.

It is hard to put into words what this trip has meant. The landscapes were vast and wild, but it was the people, the crew, the guides, and fellow travelers who made it truly unforgettable.

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, Captain Ernesto Barria Vargas, Expedition Leader Chris Long, Hotel Manager Albert Don, and all the crew and staff of m/v Hondius, it has been a pleasure travelling with you!

Northernmost point: 79°01.8’N, 011°14.8’E

Details

Tripcode: HDS11-25
Dates: 23 Aug - 5 Sep, 2025
Duration: 13 nights
Ship: m/v Hondius
Embark: Longyearbyen
Disembark: Akureyri

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Aboard m/v Hondius

Hondius is the world’s first-registered Polar Class 6 vessel and was built from the ground up for expedition cruising.

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